Justine Costigan finds a cosy slice of rural tranquillity - with a little luxury on the side.

Sue Wright tells me that Greenhill used to be a proper little village on the outskirts of Kyneton but now, she says, indicating with a sweep of her arm, it is just a collection of farms and homesteads.

Hidden away, off the main road, and halfway between Malmsbury and Kyneton, Greenhill feels like a perfect slice of rural life: quiet, green and restful.

It will probably stay that way, too. Now that the highway bypasses Malmsbury (once the first country town on the Calder outside of Melbourne and our first stop of the day), the town and surrounding areas are waiting to see what will happen. Predictably, business for some traders has already slowed.

While there's no regret that the trucks that used to speed through town are gone, locals are wondering whether people will still get off the highway to visit. Only a few weeks after the highway extension opened it's too early to tell but I don't know how anyone on the road can resist a stop at the Malmsbury bakery for a meat pie or a vanilla slice. Delicious, generously proportioned and made from local ingredients, even on a "quiet" day, the bakery is packed.

There's more to Malmsbury than pies, of course. We walk through the lovely botanic gardens, admire the massive stone aqueduct, wander through art galleries and boutiques and enjoy the lovely winter scenery, even if we are breathing out little puffs of mist every time we speak. But as the light starts to fade and the temperature drops, we get back in the car and head to Greenhill, our real destination.

Only 10 minutes' drive from Malmsbury, Sue and Steve Wright's 90-hectare farm at Greenhill is the location of Corinella, a 130-year-old restored weatherboard house which the Wrights run as a B&B.

On the opposite side of the property from their own home, the house is within walking distance of paddocks with sheep, alpacas and a lovely rustic chook shed.

This weekend we've brought friends who have children so we've got the whole four-bedroom house to ourselves, but it's also possible to stay in one of the ensuite rooms and share the communal living areas with other guests.

Simply renovated and restored, Corinella has four huge bedrooms, each with a fireplace and high Victorian ceilings. The beds are made up with snowy-white sheets and quilts, there's heating in each room, electric blankets on the beds and extra blankets. Two of the bedrooms have sparkling ensuite bathrooms with spa baths and there's a third bathroom with spa for the children. All the rooms have polished floorboards and thick rugs.

Each room, including the bathrooms, has windows on to the substantial garden surrounding the house. Even in winter the garden is appealing, and many of the bulbs in the beds have already emerged. In spring it will be a riot of colour and fragrance. Winter foliage means there are also plenty of nooks and crannies for the children to lose themselves in, little paths to follow and wonderful views over the farm.

Corinella has two living areas, both with TV and DVD, but we can't leave the kitchen area with its huge wooden table, large sofa and roaring fire. It's bitterly cold outside but the warmth of the fire soon has us stripping off coats, shoes and jumpers. The kettle goes on and we discover Sue has baked us a lemon cake. I am completely won over. Hosts who understand the power of afternoon tea on a cold winter's day!

Breakfast provisions come with the tariff for the house and although Sue will happily cook for us, we decide to do it ourselves. We've been supplied with enough food to feed an army. There are fresh eggs laid by the chooks on the farm, bacon, sausages, tomatoes and mushrooms, bread, home-made jams, cereal, yoghurt and fruit juice plus plenty of tea and coffee and a large bowl of fresh fruit.

Later that night the discovery of a torch inspires a night walk and we go out to look at the stars. If we turn east we can just see the halo of the lights of Melbourne in the dark. Facing west, it's all black sky and glittering stars.

Overnight, our roaring fire has settled into coals, and it's not too hard to nudge them into life again. After breakfast, later that morning, Steve offers to take the children out in the ute to see the sheep. The men go along, just as excited as the kids. An hour later they return with red noses and red cheeks, bursting with excited chatter. They've seen sheep, lambs, alpacas, dogs and chooks and they've held on tight in the back of the ute squealing at delight when Steve drove over ditches and rocks. Back in the house, I have an hour-long spa bath with bubbles.

After only a day we've already established a routine: a long, messy bath for the kids; a drink before dinner while we toast our toes in front of the fire; a night walk to stare at the stars; a quiet country night for sleeping; huge breakfast; more walks, naps and cups of tea. Bliss.

The Wrights' generous, although very unobtrusive, hospitality makes this weekend a huge success.

A sense of being well looked after, a little luxury (fires set for you, electric blankets, a beautiful house, home-made cake) provides children and adults with an ideal break. And I've come home with a new recipe for lemon cake.

VISITORS' BOOK

Corinella Country House

Address: 295 Malmsbury East Road, Kyneton.

Bookings: corinella.net or 5423 2474 or sswright@activ8.net.au.

Getting there: A 45-minute drive from Melbourne Airport.

How much: From $165 a night a room or $800 for two nights for the whole house (sleeps eight). Includes breakfast provisions.

Summary: A farmstay with a touch of luxury that the whole family can enjoy.

The verdict: 18

The score: 19-20 excellent; 17-18 great; 15-16 good; 13-14 comfortable, well-run.

All weekends away are conducted anonymously and paid for.